Archive for September 5th, 2008

09.06.08 (II)

A good friend asks me if I want to meet members of Mungiki.

He tells me that more people support Mungiki than admit, that our much-vaunted economic successes fuel resentment and hatred, that we don’t know how to discharge the energies in our lithe bodies, that bodies extend themselves into spears and arrows. That this slippery slope associational logic lives in a too-near, too-present, too-possible future.

Stories are told matter-of-factly, almost flatly: they killed us, we killed them. Distance seems impossible, disidentification an academic fiction. From the States, comparisons to Rwanda seemed far-fetched, exaggerated. In well-appointed middle-class homes, the stories continue to circulate and the comparisons seem all too apt.

People will be surprised when Mungiki hits, I am told.

The dialogue seems unreal. In public. Among the well-appointed, where one cup of coffee costs more than a packet of milk.

What strikes me is the guyness of it. The admiration for a code of manliness, a mode of gender performance that joins Rambo-style bravado to economic desperation.

Kenya, meet your sons.

Those we used to term kichwa ngumu have acquired weapons and a unifying philosophy, have found each other, have discovered that the terror inflicted on them in classrooms by teachers, on the streets by policemen, by bigger bullies in big cars can be re-deployed, have discovered the pleasure of dominance.

What are the homoerotics of terror?

It is impossible not to think about bloodlust, about the ritual obscenity of taking life, of circumcising other men, of quantifying body parts, foreskins, hands, heads, of the cold deliberation that gains its energy from what can only be described as jouissance.

I sip my juice. He puts honey in his oh-so-healthy organic tea blend.
* * *
I realize that I have been wrong.

The distinction I want to make between the rank and file of Mungiki and other terror-causing groups and the middle- and upper middle-class from which they are presumably excluded is less stable than I had imagined. People like me know Mungiki. Some of us support it. Not simply in material ways or through inflammatory rhetoric.

I am reminded that joblessness in Kenya, as increasingly everywhere, is unrelated to educational status.

I realize that much of what I seem to be observing seems banal, perhaps boring. What strikes me is that these are conversations with intimates, with my very best friends, with relatives, with family. It is this that seems so unfathomable.
* * *
I cite my gender critique of Mungiki, the violence-laden patriarchy, and a woman tells me: “oh, yes. On that point I agree.” This critique, which I take to be so foundational, a deal-breaker, that Mungiki believe in and enforce oppressive gender norms, registers, but does not rupture a form of allegiance.

This is a world where one would rather serve jail time than “rat” on someone else. It’s the only comparison my limited mind can imagine.

And so the ordinary becomes a necessary impossibility.

We pick my nieces up from school, go to the market, debate whether to get tomatoes or potatoes, cook and clean, scold the dog, wash dishes, bake muffins, and avoid having conversations.
* * *
I’m not yet sure what it means to resist ethnicity, and I am struck by what seem to be the limitations of my much-trained mind.

Offered, “without Mungiki we would all have been killed” and “the newspapers only print negative things, but there are many positive things about Mungiki,” I realize this is not a world I had imagined, that I have been naïve in many ways, distanced, that something known as “Kikuyu Nationalism” exists, and thrives.

That my skin crawls seems irrelevant.

I can no longer write about this, not today, perhaps later. But not today.

I remain awed by those who have lived here, with this, have written, continue to write. And I realize how much I owe them.

09.06.08 (I)

Today I went to the overpriced bookstore at ABC place, close to Java, about which more later. I had expected that the Africana section would be full of books by well-meaning, indifferent, or exploitative foreigners—this, after all, is one of the targets of “How to Write about Africa,” or “What Kenyans Sell in Their Bookstores.”

The Africana section was really Africanist—in the sense of Orientalist. Row after row of overpriced coffee books, boldly and beautifully created. The Flora and Fauna of Kenya: Elephants, Maasai, Birds, Turkana, Butterflies, Pokot. One should not be amazed, then, that on landing elsewhere the natives ask whether we speak human languages and use forks.

There is, of course, a complex argument to be made about specieism. Am I claiming that juxtaposing humans with wild animals demeans humans? (Are we still allowed to say “wild animals”?) I will note, in passing, that a long-ago acquaintance traveling in these here parts found Kenya, especially Nairobi, incredibly disappointing. It was nothing like National Geographic. Tanzania was more authentic.

Poor Tanzania, forced to bear the cross of authenticity!

I will confess that I don’t have the mental energy to weigh and balance specieism against Africanism. That debate I leave to more agile minds.

Recently, I was told that an affianced couple wanted a fairy tale themed wedding. Among a certain set, themed weddings are all the rage. Looking around the bookstore, I understood the impulse. Little white princes and princesses litter the landscape of children’s fiction. No doubt, in the coming months I will have more to write about the Kenyan Princess set, to which I have no access. But this is Kenya. Stories circulate.

So, thoroughly disgusted by this point, I pick up the Kasuku notebook I need—reasonably priced—and head to the register, where the oh-so-busy shop co-owner looks at my unlaced shoes, uncombed hair, stained pants, and decides that I can wait for service. And I wait. And wait. And Wait.

This I take as a welcome home gesture. One is interpellated through a studied silence. And I wanted a story to blog about. So I waited.

Did I mention that when I entered the store the clerks were prompted to follow me? This much be one of the privileges of blackness.

ABC Place. Overpriced Bookstore. If you want to feel black and privileged.

I pay because I really need the book. Must speak. And the clerk does a double-take that I seem to have mastered English. This, I suspect, is why certain of our population wear tags that read “Very Educated Doctor. Speaks English. And Will Use Polysyllables.”

Oh. Well. After all, Ngugi was thrown out of a semi-posh hotel. And I, too, want my “I was thrown out” moment.

So, Java. Which I had forgotten I should boycott. But Nelly, the young lady who served us was delightful, the passion juice oh-so-good, the fact that my very good friend paid even better, though my sister was wearing whorish shoes and I looked like a tramp.

As for Java, one remains caught in a bind: a symbolic boycott versus the 99% Kenyan workforce, few of whom, I suspect, work there for extra pocket money while living off their trust funds.

Deprived of my talk on the phone with best friend for two hours every day, I find I have become chatty, conventionally so. Must. Find. Abstract. Topic. Soon.


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